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Guide to Besalu, Northern Spain

Date Added: September 15, 2007 12:15:31 PM
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Category: Regional: Spain

Unique Points

Besalu is a lovely medieval town. The 12th century Roman bridge over to the town is a real landmark(photo). The town sits where the Rivers Fluvia and Capadella meet. If you are looking for a picturesque inland setting for a few days, Besalu is an ideal choice. It would take under an hour to drive from Girona airport,, well served by Ryanair flights from all over Europe. There is a lot to do and see in the area, the Garrotxa Volcanic Park, the Dali Museum in Figueres, the coast, and the city of Girona.

History of Besalu

Wilfred the Hairy, credited with the unification of Catalonia, was born in Besalu in 878. He was so named as he was as hairy as a mountain troll, even having hair of on the souls of his feet.

In the Middle Ages Besalu was the capital of a country which reached up to Corbieres, now in France. Besalu was the birthplace of Ramon Vidal. a troubadour, a type of lyric poet who composed music and poetry usually on the topic of courtly love.

The Church of Sant Pere, in the main square was originally part of a monastery built in 1003.

The Milova is a ritual Jewish bath dating from the 11th or 12th century. It is located near the River Fluvia in the lower town. It was recently discovered and restored. You need to visit the Tourist Office in the main square to obtain the key.

In December there is the Fiera de Ratafia. This is the local "firewater"; a grappa based sweet liquor flavoured with herbs, spices, coffee and nuts. Legend tells that witches supervise its production; it is left outside for two weeks so that the magic and power of the sun and the moon can contribute to its special flavour.

There is an outdoor market on Tuesdays.

Restaurants

Many of the restaurants in the area are members of the Volcanic Cuisine organisation. The aim is to promote and encourage the traditional gastronomic style using local produce. There is a list or restaurants on their site.

The Oliveras restaurant in Besalu has various set and a la carte menus which start at 7.60 euros per person.

Day Trips

Girona You can easily spend a whole day in Girona, there area several museums, you can walk the city walls, visit the cathedral, do some shopping.

Banyoles. The main attraction here is the lake, which you can walk around.

The Dali Museum in Figueres, around 20kms east of Besalu, is well worth a visit.

The Garrotxa Volcanic Park The park has around thirty volcanic cones. The last eruption was around 11,500 years ago, meaning that the volcanoes are inactive but not extinct. There are several walks through the park.

Walking trails There are many marked trails in the area

Museums There are two museums in the town of Olot. The Volcanic Musuem and the ethnological Comarcal de la Garrotxa.

The Coast Cadaques is a lovely spot, reached by a road full of hairpin bends. Its famous residents have included Dali, Picasso, Miro and Duchamps. I also rather liked El Porto la Selva a little further north.

South West France If you feel like a change, France is easily reached by motorway. It is very pretty on the coast around Luecate, just north of Perpignan. Carcassonne is a complete medieval walled city.

You can read the full guide with photos and a selection of accommodation at http://www.europealacarte.co.uk/Spain/besalu.html

Karen Bryan is a UK based independent travel consultant and writer. Her website, Europe a la Carte, http://www.europealacarte.co.uk, features less well known destinations in Europe. Karen believes that you will discover more of the real Europe if you venture even slightly off the well beaten tourist track.


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