Mongolia is a land of horses and herdsmen and one of the last great, undisturbed wilderness areas on earth. Among its 2.4 million people are some of the last truly nomadic pastoralists in the world - but how long they will survive is questionable. About one-third of the scant population are concentrated in the capital, Ulaanbaatar, whereas the dwindling population of nomads, herdsmen -with their millions of head of livestock, are spread throughout the country. The people are well matched to the land they inhabit, they are tough, resilient, stoical by dint of necessity, but genuinely fun-loving, easy going and kind.
Since earliest times, tribes have moved across the great Central Asian plains and mountain ranges that cover present-day Mongolia, but little is known of the ethnic origins of the proto-Mongol people. The mystery lies tangled in the fact that we are dealing with a fluid and changeable nomadic society. The division between Inner and Outer Mongolia (the latter being the area covered by this guide) was effected by the Qing dynasty Manchus of China (1644-1912), who conquered southern (Inner) Mongolia before northern (Outer) Mongolia. This has resulted in differences between the two areas.
On the whole, within the city, the nomadic culture of the countryside mixes easily with the modern urban culture of Ulaanbaatar and the two often combine without fuss. This is best seen in Ulaanbaatar, where a Mongol teenager -wearing a silk tunic, fur hat and long leather boots might jump off his horse (which is quickly ridden away by a friend since, according to recent law, animals are not allowed in the town centre), contact his mother by mobile phone to say he will be home late, and then spend the evening with his girlfriend, either shopping in a modern supermarket, or dancing in one of the city’s new bars or discos.
Mongolia is connected to the fashion houses of the world through its marketing of cashmere. In Ulaanbaatar it is not surprising to see the latest Asian or European up-to-the-minute designs in clothing and trendy footwear. Young city Mongols are very style-conscious; chart music in UB discos is as modern as it is in London or Tokyo. Internet cafe culture is well established and the capital can boast many new restaurants serving international cuisine.
What is clear is that the life of the Mongolian nomad is changing drastically. Prime Minister Nambaryn Enkbayar said, ‘In order to survive, we may have to stop being nomads.’ On the steppes, a few satellite phones (if not more numerous trucks) have taken the place of horseriding couriers, who in the days of the Mongol empire covered vast distances at a gallop, bringing news to and from outlying regions. As more modern machinery enters a Mongolia that is beginning to abandon its ancient disciplines, one wonders •what it will do to the countryside and its people. The slow and fast tracks of the ancient as well as the modern world have their individual and separate consequences. The nomad is slowed down by lack of machinery and his workload increased, whereas machines only present more problems in isolated places when it comes to replacing broken parts. Extreme concerns are that although Mongolia is open to the world of trade and tourism, the natural environmental and traditional livelihood of the nomads is likely to suffer, unless financial assistance for rural development, with stricter laws on planning, and other controls are put in place. This is particularly the case following the hard winters that in recent years have brought about overwhelming livestock losses alongside other socio-economic difficulties. Should this situation last, it could threaten the original identity of all Mongolians, particularly the truly pastoral nomads who embody Mongolia’s cultural heritage. The thought that they might face extinction is an irony because it was their heritage, with its openness and toughness, which helped to make the successful switch from a command economy to a market-orientated one.

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Posted: March 11th, 2008 under Asia, Adventure.
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The origin of Rhodes is connected to a myth mentioned by Pindar. According to that myth, twhen Zeus defeated the Giants and became lord and master of the Earth, he decided to divide it up among the Olympian gods. But during this division Helios, the Sun-God, was absent and “no one remembered to include him in the draw and thus this purest of the gods was left without a country of his own”. When Helios returned he complained to Zeus about the injustice that had been done to him and he asked the father of the gods to promise him that the land that would come forth from the sea would become his. And indeed while he was speaking, a beautiful, flower-strewn island began to slowly merge from the deep blue sea. It was Rhodes. Overcome with happiness Helios bathed the island in his own radiance and made it the loveliest island in the Aegean Sea.
Another myth attributes the origin of Rhodes to the love Helios had for the nymph Rhodos, who was the daughter of Poseidon, the god of the sea. When he saw her, as the myth tells us, Helios was so smitten by her beauty that he made her his wife. Together they had one daughter and seven sons. According to the myth, one of their sons, Kerkafos, had three children: Kameiros, lalyssos and Lindos who built the three largest towns on the island. It is also said that the island took its name from the nymph Rhodos alone, while another source says the name comes from Greek word for rose. On this island of myths and flowers, the centuries have left the marks of a flourishing and rich culture. Its geographical position has played an important role in the develop of the island’s commerce, even in prehistoric times and it has provided it with long periods of prosperity throughout its three thousand year long history.
The emerald isle of Rhodes lies in the southeastern part of the Aegean sea on the sea lane between East and West. It is the largest island there and the capital of a complex of approximately two hundred other islands known as the Dodecanese. Several of these, including Rhodes itself, broke through the surface of the sea in the distant past as a result of earthquakes. The fossilized seashells on the slopes of the mountains confirm this and add substance to the myth of Rhodes’ birth.
Rhodes lies 270 nautical miles from Piraeus and is surrounded by the islands ofSymi, Titos, Chalki and Alimia as well as the rocky outcroppings of Tragousa, Makry, Strongyli, Drosonisi, Prasonisi, Galouniand Tetrapoli. It has an area of 1,400 sq. km., a length of 78 km. and a width of 38 km. at its widest point. Its coastline has a length of 220 km. consisting primarily of level sand beaches split by steep cliffs. The southernmost point of the island is found at Prasonisi which is joined to the island by a strip of sand. The land is by and large mountainous, with small plains, verdant ravines and river-beds, valleys and plateaus. The highest mountain is Attavyros (1,215m.) with the smaller mountains ofAkramytis (825m.) and Profitis Ilias (798 m.). Rhodes has, on an average, 300 days of sunshine a year. The continual sunshine and the mild climate make the island suitable for viticulture. Its superb climate, the fertile soil and the geographical position are the main factors which have made the island densely populated from antiquity up to the present. Its population today is around 90,000 and they are able to play host to more than 1,250,000 visitors a year. Visitors who come to enjoy the island’s natural beauty and to get acquainted with its long history.

Technorati Tags [ beach | RHodes | Greece | isles | island | sea | Helios | myth | Zeus | Aegean | history | greek | sun ]

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Posted: October 29th, 2007 under Greece, Beach.
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Mauro Ciaroni has collected a beautiful Yemen pictures anthology during his last travel to Yemen in January 2005. The images of this land speak a powerful language: the language of freedom, the language of soul. The places, the faces, the landscapes are all elements of the same puzzle. Browsing these images is like reading an ancient book of exotic adventures, it’s so captivating that you can’t stop until you will see the last image.

Needless to say that all the photos are published for the first time under the author copyright.

Let’s see his amazing work.

YEMEN PLACES

YEMEN PEOPLE

Technorati Tags [   Yemen | photos | travel | middle east | pictures | images | travel photos | faces | places | Sana’a | photography ]

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Posted: September 19th, 2007 under Yemen, Middle East, Photos.
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In Emila Romagna the quality of life is important, it is no surprise to find that it is home to some of Italy’ finest spa establishments and wellness centers.

These “heavens of well-being”, often set in beautiful natural environments, are perfect places to relax and take a break from frenetic business life. From the Appennines near Piacenza to the Romagna Coast, the region offers a dense network of spas that use natural spring water for treating a wide range of aliments, diseases and disorders. In many cases these establishments have interesting histories that are closely linked to the longstanding traditions of spa culture. However, despite having their origins in the past, they have truly modernized, incorporating the latest technology. These thermal spas offer integrated treatments for wellness and body care, but there are also other interesting options associated to various sports, and their cultural or leisure activities.

Bagno di Romagna Terme

As the archeological remains of the Sant’Agnese baths show, there has been interest in the curative properties of its hot springs since Roman times, when the town was called Oppidum Balnei. Today, Bagno di Romagna is a health spa with the following facilities: Sant’Agnese, the first spa complex dating from the i8th century, the Terme Roseo spa and the Euroterme hotel-spa complex. Sant’Agnese offers hydropinic treatments (drinking the spring water), mud- and balneo-therapy, natural caves (for steam therapy), and treatments for vascular diseases and gynecological problems. There is also a wellness center. The Terme Roseo spa has its own spring and, in addition to the main treatments (mud therapy, a steam cave, inhalations, baths and irrigations of various kinds) offers physiokinesitherapy and motory rehabilitation. This spa also has a wellness center. Euroterme has a thermal pool complex, partly indoor and partly open-air, with a solarium, hydro-massage, geyser falls, underwater massage beds, underwater music therapy and a pediatric department with colorful play areas. It also has a sports medical center and a wellness center. The properties of the sulfurous bicarbonate alkaline water are beneficial in the treatment of circulatory diseases, liver and bile-duct complaints, problems of the digestive tract, the motory and respiratory systems, and the urinary tract, metabolism disorders and gynecological problems.

Castrocaro Terme

There is an unusual story behind the discovery of the hot springs here. In 1829, some customs officers caught a smuggler in the act of stealing a small barrel of salt water from the springs of the Bolga River. The court ordered him to pay a fine since he was found guilty of stealing from the State (since salt was a state monopoly) and ordered that the stolen water should be analyzed. Scientific analysis showed that the water contained not only salt, but also bromine and iodine. This led to the first therapeutic experiments and the erection of spa facilities, as well as the sale of mineral water. The Castrocaro Terme spa complex, founded in 1843, comprises three buildings situated in a park of 8 hectares. They were designed by the Florentine architect Boboli, the same man who created the Boboli Gardens in Florence, and are directly connected to the Jolly Hotel Grande Albergo Terme. The spa is set in a relaxing environment and has excellent facilities for sport and entertainment, including a vast outdoor pool, hydro-massage and trampolines, a mini-golf course and an open-air dance-floor. In addition to traditional spa treatments, there is a specialist health center; a wellness center with pools fed with spring water, hydro-massage, a sauna, a Turkish bath, a steam cave, a Scottish shower, a rehabilitation center (specializing in shoulder complaints); a diagnosis, prevention and rehabilitation center for vascular and lymphatic diseases; departments of esthetic medicine and traditional Chinese medicine, and a homeopathic medicine service. The temperature of the water ranges from 6.5°C/44°F to 15°C/59°F and is beneficial in the treatment of circulatory diseases, skin complaints, problems of the digestive tract, the motory system and the respiratory system and the urinary tract, metabolism, gynecological and stomatological disorders.

Riccione Terme

According to tradition, the Blessed Alexius, patron saint of the town, made water spout from a rock to slake the thirst of some pilgrims. Other tales relate that Turkish corsairs used to stop at Riccione during their raids on the coasts of the Adriatic, in order to benefit from the thermal springs here. Historic sources provide evidence that the spring water here was appreciated by the Emperor Diocletian and, in the i/th century, by Queen Christina of Sweden. However, Riccione didn’t really become a spa town until the 2oth century, when it suddenly became a popular tourist destination. Today, Riccione has a modern spa complex comprising two pavilions (Centrale and Bianco), set in a park of 40,000 m2 with a wide range of facilities. The complex is a stone’s throw from the sea of Riccione, Italy’s leading wellness beach, with a pool fed with spring water, inhalatory treatments and waterfall hydro-massage. The wellness sector is very important here. The Oasi di Riccione Terme has both a center for thermal medicine and esthet surgery (with gyms, 4 pools fed with spring water, a humid-hot cave, massa, and mud therapy), and the La Marina Bagno 49 wellness beach. There are numerous therapeutic treatments available (for disintoxication, osteoporosis, giving up smoking, backache) and a vast range of thermal and esthetic treatments. The water here is recommended in the treatment of circulatory diseases, liver and bile-duct complaints, skin disorders, problems ol the digestive tract, the motory system, respiratory system, the urinary tract, an metabolism and gynecological disorder.

Salsomaggiore Terme

The salt bromine iodic water of Salsomaggiore was already well-known and used in the 8th century, on account of its high salt content. The first public spacomplex, which dates from 1858, soon became famous all over Italy. The Terme di Salsomaggiore company
operates the Terme Berzieri andTerme Zoia spa establishments. The former was built from 1913-1923 in the Art Nouveau and Art Deco styles. The latter, built in the Parco Mazzini in 1970, has a different style based on simplicity and functionality. The range of treatments offered by the spa is staggering. Terme Berzieri not only has inhalation and mud therapy departments (where the salt bromine iodic water is concentrated into the so-called acqua madre - brine - and natural mud), but incorporates the Tempio di Igea wellness center (with a sauna, a Turkish bath, French shower, aromatic treatments, beauty treatments and massage). Terme Zoia offers all the traditional spa treatments and has a modern medical center and various specialized centers (pediatric inhalations, thermal hydro-therapy, osteoporosis analyses, mouth hygiene and esthetic medicine). The Terme di Salsomaggiore company also operates two hotels with in-house treatments: the Grand Hotel Porro and the Hotel Valentini. Both buildings are situated in a park where there is also a large indoor pool (the only one in town fed with thermal spring water). Not far from these buildings, in the town center, is the Istituto Termale
Baistrocchi, a historic institution with 300 rooms, which offers its guests a brand new treatment department and weekly programs to improve physical wellness. The water of the Salsomaggiore Terme spring (i6°C/6i°F) is good for the treatment of circulatory diseases, and problems associated with themotoryand respiratory systems, as well as gynecological and stomatological complaints.

Technorati Tags [ spa | resort | pool | wellness | health | italian spas | Terme | Castrocaro | Salsomaggiore | Riccione | Bagno di Romagna | water | cure | health treatment | bath ]

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Posted: August 31st, 2007 under Wellness, Romagna, Italy.
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” This is the land of the eighth harmony in the rainbow: Black. It is the dark side of the moon brought to light.” (Tsegaye Gebre-Medhin, Ethiopian poet)

With this post i am proud to begin a collaboration with Mauro Ciaroni, a real traveler and a great amateur photographer. Mauro is a few words man, his actions (and his photos) speak for him. He doesn’t want to describe his travels with human words but he prefers to show what his eyes have seen through his camera. So you will not find well written exaustive descriptions in his posts but only images with few words of comment. This is the way how Mauro loves to share his travels and i will respect his preferences without problems.

Mauro loves Africa and he went to Ethiopia in July 2003, spending one month wandering around its savanas and meeting local people. These photos are his contribution to the beauty and the wildness of this overhelming Country. Enjoy.

Technorati Tags [ photo | images | africa | photoblog | ethiopia | african people | travel | traveling | pictures | landscapes | masai | tucul | animals | adventure | raid | tours | markets | village | travel photos ]

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Posted: August 22nd, 2007 under Photos, Adventure, Africa.
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A huge vineyard extends from the Apennine hills to the shores of the Po River and the Adriatic Sea, offering well-known wines that have come to symbolize this region where good food and company are at the center of everyday life. The Via Aemilia (the ancient Roman road whose construction began in 187 BC) runs through the whole region along a string of cities from Piacenza to Rimini, and divides it in half: on one side, the Apennines whose gentle hills are favorable for vines for their position and climate; on the other, the plain descending to the Po River and the Adriatic coast, revealing a wine-making vocation that is far above expectations. This geographic area consists of four production districts that are consistent by tradition and ampelographic composition. The first is located on the hills of Piacenza and Parma, where the red Barbera, Gutturnio, and Bonarda prevail, demonstrating the evident influence of the neighboring Oltrepo Pavese area, but the white Ortugo and Malvasia di Candia are also present. Then there are the lands of Lambrusco, emblematic of Emilia’s wine production, extending from the hills to the banks of the Po in the provinces of Reggio Emilia and Modena. These are followed by the Bologna hills and the lower valley of the River Reno, where traditional white wines prevail, such as Pignoletto and Montu. Finally comes the vast vineyard of Romagna, with Sangiovese, Trebbiano, Pagadebit and Albana dominating the scene. The regional scenario closes at the Ferrara end, with the vineyards planted at Fortana on the sands of the Po Delta. Other DOC (controlled denomination of origin) recognized areas are Bosco Eliceo, and the hills of Faenza, Imola, Rimini, Scandiano and Canossa.

The composition of the Emilia-Romagna vineyards, extending two thirds on the plain and the remainder on the hills, is clearly outlined. Only two vines cover almost half of the region: they are the white Trebbiano Romagnolo and the red Sangiovese, both characteristic of the Romagna production in particular. Reinforcing the position of the slightly predominating reds, there are the Lambrusco wines, the Ancellotta, and the coupled Barbera and Bonarda. Among the whites, the Albana is foremost, as the only DOCG wine of the region. Also worthy of mention are some interesting local wines such as the Montu of the lower Reno River area, and Malvasia Bianca di Candia from Parma and Piacenza. Pride of the region is the DOCG attributed to Albana di Romagna, followed by 20 DOC and 10 IGT areas. The DOC production places Emilia-Romagna in fifth position in Italy with two wines, Colli Piacentini and Reggiano, among the top 20 Italian DOC wines; in this sector red wines are more than twice as many as whites but the production is only partially DOC (25%) or IGT (40%). However, since the region is particularly alert in evaluating its wine and food resources, there are prospects pointing to a prompt extension of such protective measures. The vitality of this sector is unquestionable and mention should be made of the wine tours, on fertile ground in the Emilia-Romagna region due to the beauty of the landscape, its art treasures, and traditions for reception and welcome. There are as many as 11 food and wine routes (promoted and supported by local organizations and retailers) significantly present in the area and backed by a network of hotel and restaurant hospitality unequaled in the entire country.

Albana di Romagna

A wine produced in the provinces of Bologna, Forli-Cesena and Ravenna. Unmistakable on the vine for its elongated bunches of golden yellow grapes, Albana stands out for its sugar content which is the basis for exceptional vinification. It is the first Italian white wine to have obtained the DOCG recognition and offers a production code covering several different types: dry, straw-yellow in color tending to golden with aging, a characteristic bouquet and a dry, slightly tannic, warm, harmonious flavor; Amabile and Dolce differ in the intensity of fruity hints and rounded flavor; Passito, amber in color, intense bouquet and velvety, full flavor. Its ageing capacity increases in proportion to its alcoholic content, from 2 to 3 years for the dry wine, 10 or more for passito. The dry type goes well with seafood in general, Lambrusco DOC A denomination that refers to a large family of red grape vines and several different DOC productions in the area of Reggio Emilia and Modena. Three of them, Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro, grown in the hills, Lambrusco Salamino di Santa Croce and Lambrusco di Sorbara, widespread in the plain, have acquired autonomous denomination. These sparkling wines share the fragrance of bouquets with marked hints of violets, their slightly acidulous flavor and freshness making them ideal companions for cured pork meats, especially the cooked ones, and for the rich Emilia cuisine in general. Castelvetro di Modena lends its name to Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro, typical of the Emilia tradition but now widespread thanks to its relatively low alcohol content and slight sparkle, making it agreeable and easy to drink. Compared to the other types of Lambrusco, it is firm in structure, intense in color especially shellfish and fish soups; it can also accompany white meats. The Gutturnio, a Roman Amabile and Dolce are dessert wine jug wines accompanying a wide range of combinations, and traditionally Ciambella, the local cake. Passito is usually served with pastry and dried fruit, but also with herbed or spiced cheeses.

Bonarda Colli Piacentini

Obtained from the vine with the same name, this is a ruby red, at times intense table wine, very suitable for the products of local gastronomy such as Coppa Piacentina. It is produced in Frizzante or Spumante types and has a flavor that can be dry, abboccato (sweetish), amabile (semi-sweet), or dolce (sweet), slightly tannic, fresh, still or fizzy; ageing can last up to 3 years.

Gutturnio Colli Piacentini

This derives its name from a silver Roman goblet recovered from the Po River in 1878. It is the best known of the Colli Piacentini DOCs and has a distinctive blend of Barbera and Croatina grapes typical of the area. A wine with a wide spectrum, dry or semi-sweet, still or sparkling, it also comes in the Novello, Superiore and Riserva types. The label ^ can indicate the “Classico” qualification if produced in the area of the oldest tradition. It is particularly suitable in a combination with “Coppa” or with the tasty local first courses such as “Pisarei con Fagioli”.

Lambrusco

A denomination that refers to a large family of red grape vines and several different DOC productions in the area of Reggio Emilia and Modena. Three of them, Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro, grown in the hills, Lambrusco Salamino di Santa Croce and Lambrusco di Sorbara, widespread in the plain, have acquired autonomous denomination. These sparkling wines share the fragrance of bouquets with marked hints of violets, their slightly acidulous flavor and freshness making them ideal companions for cured pork meats, especially the cooked ones, and for the rich Emilia cuisine in general. Castelvetro di Modena lends its name to Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro, typical of the Emilia tradition but now widespread thanks to its relatively low alcohol content and slight sparkle, making it agreeable and easy to drink. Compared to the other types of Lambrusco, it is firm in structure, intense in color and bouquet and full-bodied. By local custom it is drunk throughout the entire meal. Lambrusco Salamino di Santa Croce comes in two types, Frizzante Rosso (sparkling red) and Frizzante Rosato (sparkling rose) and can be Secco, Abboccato, Amabile or Dolce. Ideal for first courses and cured pork meats, it is also an agreeable end-of-meal wine in the Amabile version. Lambrusco di Sorbara is the most valued of the Emilia Lambrusco wines; it is a red or rose sparkling wine, owing its reputation to its preservation capacities, which have favored its export. Light ruby red in color, a rosy froth, it has a fresh, fine bouquet with hints of violets, slightly aromatic and fruity. The typical combination is with cured pork meats, Parmesan cheese and pasta courses.

Malvasia Colli di Parma

White wine produced from the Malvasia di Candia Aromaticavine. Straw-yellow in color and dry in taste, still or sparkling. It comes in the Amabile, Spumante and Frizzante types and is ideal for seafood dishes.

Ortrugo Colli Piacentini

A local white wine produced from a rare, native vine of the same name - Ortrugo -straw- yellow in color tending towards greenish. Delicate, aromatic bouquet, dry flavor with a slightly bitter aftertaste, it accompanies omelets, soft cheeses and tortelli with herbs. It comes in Secco, Frizzante and Spumante types.

Pagadebit di Romagna

Amabile white wine (also Frizzante), produced from the Bombino Bianco vine, a type of high-yield grape guaranteeing a good harvest even in difficult years. It is straw-yellow in color, with a characteristic bouquet of hawthorn and a delicate flavor that is dry, grassy and harmonious. It qualifies as Bertinoro if produced in the limited area of this township. (Secco or Amabile, also Frizzante).

Sangiovese di Romagna

This is the most widely cultivated vine in Italy. It crossed the Apennines from its native Tuscany to become the vine that is the symbol of Romagna, grown predominantly on the hills. The earliest evidence of its presence dates from the i/th century, and since then its reputation has constantly grown. In the valleys between Imola and Rimini the climate and the evolution of the vine through the centuries have produced a ruby red wine with possible purple hues, delicate bouquet with hints of violets, dry and harmonious with slightly bitter undertones. It is made in the Novello, Superiore and Riserva versions, as well as geographic denomination of the best known areas (Faenza, Forli, Cesena, Imola and Rimini). It goes well with roast meats, but can also accompany tagliatelle with meat sauce.

Trebbiano di Romagna

This is the other record-holder among regional wines, as well as being the most-produced white wine in the world. A highly productive vine, it is traditionally converted into easy-to-drink wines. This is a good feature in particular if the producer is able to bring out the characteristic bouquet of apple and fresh grass with a dominating acidulous hint. Its straw-yellow color, floral bouquet and delicate flavor make it suitable for combinations with tortelli alle erbette and with the Adriatic coastal seafood cuisine.

Technorati Tags [ wine | italian wines | EMilia Romagna | Lambrusco | Sangiovese | Trebbiano | Malvasia | Pagadebit | Pignoletto | Ortugo | Vineyard | Albana | wine making | Adriatic Coast | Italy ]

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Posted: August 18th, 2007 under Wines, Romagna, Italy.
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Rimini is a great place, really stunning. You have all in one single city: sea, beach, culture, art, hinterland and past to discover. An illustrious citizen of Rimini is Federico Fellini, a great italian director dead in 1993 and greatly appreciated by all movie enthusiasts around the world. Fellini has been a lovely son for Rimini, and this love has been reciprocated by Fellini through its movies where this city appears in many different situations.

Looking at the streets of Rimini through Fellini’s eyes (1920-1993) transforms real places into visions of places half-recalled. In this way, “Piazza Cavour” and “Piazza Tre Martiri” become the piazza in Amarcord (1974, winner of the Oscar for best foreign film), where public and social life converge, under porticoes and in buildings, in shops and on benches. However, it is also the place where I Vitelloni (1953) are seen loafing around. Rarely in movie history has a film connoted a place with such sociological accuracy and with such evocative power as I Vitelloni did with Rimini and the Romagna Riviera. The idleness of the five protagonists, the repetitiveness and the self-referential nature of provincial life, the schemes dreamed up in the bar without the slightest desire to put them into practice are at one with the streets, the piazzas, the desolate beaches and the rough sea of the coast out of season. Never had Rimini, stripped of its seaside resort cliches and at times dreamlike appearance, seemed so gray. And yet, just as Fellini tainted the elegy of provincial life with his critical and bitter realism, he made it immortal in the collective imagination, aided by the extraordinary performances of his leading actors. Along “Corso Augusto”, a short distance from Piazza Cavour, looms the Fulgor cinema, portrayed in Amarcord, as a place of dreams and desires. It is an image which belongs to a bygone era. Cross the “Ponte di Tiberio” bridge and continue as far as the ancient hamlet of S. Giuliano, which seems secluded from the chaos of the rest of the city. Here you will find Gradisca, Volpina, Saraghina, Ronald Coleman, Don Balosa, Pataca, the crazy uncle, Titta, the lady tobacconist, Mastroianni and Ekberg, the characters and the actors from Fellini’s best-known films, reproduced on the walls of the houses. Leaving the hamlet you reach Marina Centra and the Grand Hotel, which in Amarcord was the symbol of unattainable, exotic, prohibited worldliness. The music of its orchestra accompanies you as far as the wharf, the winter haunt of I Vitelloni and the setting for the stunts of Scureza, the motorcyclist in Amarcord. And then the beach, where the mysteries of sex are revealed. Here women’s bodies are glimpsed for the first time, spied on in secret while they strip off, in La Città delle Donne (1979); here young lads look for the wild sensuality of Saraghina with a mixture of excitement and fear, in 8 1/2 (1963). Three years after Fellini created his most famous work, La Dolce Vita (1960), he made 8 1/2, another surreal and visually outstanding masterpiece, adding even more autobiographical elements, starting with the setting. The esplanade of Rimini, the coast between Cesena and Savignano and his parents’ home at Gambettola (a village of less than 10,000 people not far from Cesena) are the haunts of Fellini’s childhood and youth, destined to remain the landscape of his soul even after he moved to the Italian capital just before the outbreak of the World War II. The existential, sentimental and professional crisis of Marcello Mastroianni, Fellini’s faithful alter ego, mirrors the growth of an artist in search of new means of expression and the sense of life.

Symbolism and metaphor are the vehicles he uses to go to the heart of people and absolute themes such as love, art and death. The end, with the leading characters reunited on the film set dancing to the tune of Nino Rota’s circus march, has entered the annals of cinema history. The film was awarded two Oscars in 1964: best foreign film and best costumes (Pietro Gherardi). Finally, the vast ocean where the marvellous transatlantic liner Rex materialises in front of a crowd of incredulous, enchanted local people: the chance of a dream, a faraway life overseas (Amarcord). All with that down-to-earth hospitality which is part of the people of Rimini and sojourns there. “… I left Rimini in ‘37. I returned in ‘46. I came to a sea of ruined houses. There was nothing left. The only thing to emerge from the rubble was the dialect, the familiar cadence, a Siren’s call: Duilio, Severino! Those strange, curious names… I was struck by the industriousness of the people, holed up in wooden shacks, who were already talking about building hotels, hotels, hotels, this desire to build houses”. You might pay homage to the great maestro, recognised in 1993 with an Oscar for lifetime achievement, in addition to two other Oscars for best foreign film for La Strada (1954) and Le Notti di Cabiria (1957), in the Municipal Cemetery, at the monumental tomb designed by Arnaldo Pomodoro. The quotations used above are from Federico Fellini’s La Mia Rimini 2003 (translated into English as My Rimini).

Technorati Tags [ Rimini | Fellini | Amarcord | Movies | italian directors | Dolce Vita | Mastroianni | Vitelloni | Anita Eckberg | places | emilia romagna ]

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Posted: August 11th, 2007 under Movies, Cities, Romagna, Italy.
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There is no actual boundary marked on maps separating Emilia with its appealing dishes, the fried “gnocchi” (an Emilia specialty obtained by mixing flour, water, yeast, lard and salt, then rolling it out in a sheet of pasta dough, cutting it into small square pieces and frying them in boiling hot oil), from Romagna with its zesty flavors and its “piadina” (a tortilla shaped focaccia with a filling). It is rather the meeting point of the two souls of the same land.
The trapeze formed by the territory between the Po River, the Adriatic Sea and the Apennines is undoubtedly the richest gastronomical area in Italy. Its inhabitants are known to be good eaters and fond of hearty food. The cult for a well-garnished table is found all over, fueled by a dual spirit. From Piacenza to Bologna lies Emilia, from Ravenna to Rimini it is Romagna, separated at the fall of the Roman Empire by a geographic and cultural frontier with the Lombards on one side, the Byzantines on the other. The former favoured pork, beef and iron-pan cooking, the latter wheat, lamb, mutton and terracotta hotplate cooking; on one side, cured pork meats, cheeses and fried gnocchi, on the other, “castrato” (male sheep meat) and “piadina”.
The region includes the entire area from the Po River, to the Apennines and the sea. The dominant lines enclosing the landscape are the Po riverbed and the ridge of the Apennines. The horizon rises from the river stretching across lowlands with poplars, plowed stretches of land, and the great courtyard farmhouses. From the west to the east, first there is the corn and alfalfa of the Parmigiano-Reggiano land, then the great Lambrusco vineyards, market gardens, orchards, and finally the reclaimed lands and Comacchio fishing marshes. From the opposite side, the rivers descend fashioning a bright green, unexpected mountainous zone: mushrooms and chestnuts from the woods; meat, cured pork and cheeses from the pastures. Lower down, the hillside belt swarms with busy districts and productive activities: between the Trebbia and the Marecchia rivers there are the vineyards - Gutturnio to Albana - alternating with cherry and plum orchards. Then the narrow strip of pinewoods and beach heralding the flavors of the sea.
As far as farming and foods are concerned, the Emilia-Romagna region is a leader in many ways. Statistics set it highest in the production of soft wheat, in the top positions in the fruit, brandy and wine sectors; the same can be said as concerns the • manufacture of cheese, cured pork meats and vegetables in general. In fact, several of the major Italian food production firms are from this region. What is even more remarkable, however, is its reputation as a culinary paradise, according to the collective image. “Alia bolognese” (Bologna style) is a term • that is used (and abused) on a worldwide level, and two typical products such as Parmigiano-Reggiano and Prosciutto di Parma, the industrial production of which has managed to combine tradition and organic excellence, have equal worldwide reputations. A more recent and exclusive achievement is the international renown of traditional balsamic vinegar, representing the last word in resistance to mass produced food: a magic, dream-evoking potion sold in small quantities in precious flasks, proof of the potential of a typical Italian product.

As already mentioned, the gastronomy is divided between two contrasting cultures: that of Emilia, based softly and appealingly on the general idea of butter and mellow sauces, and the Romagna tradition which is more sanguine and inspired by the avant-garde strong flavors of central Italy. The gastronomic differences that develop when moving from one to the other area are extremely varied. It is enough to mention pasta, the regional symbol: the center of gravity is held by the “tortellino” for which Bologna and Modena both claim parenthood, but in Piacenza and Parma with only slight variations we find the “anolino”, in Reggio Emilia the “cappelletto”, in Ferrara pumpkin “tortelli”; while going down into the Romagna area, stuffed pasta gives way to “garganelli” or “cappelletti” with only a cheese filling. Left to itself, Emilia, where pork holds sway, has a great number of specialties such as horse meat in Piacenza, pigeon in Parma, rabbit in Modena. In the mountains the scenario is enhanced by elements originating from the other side: traditions of the Liguria region found in the upper Piacenza area, Florentine customs descending the Parma river valley and the Tuscan-Emilian Apennines, Montefeltro customs along the southern border. The same goes for the coast where the “brodetto” (fish soup) alternates with fried “seppie” and “calamari” and grilled fish, emphasizing different flavors according to whether the focal point is towards Rovigo or Pesaro. The Emilia-Romagna region offers opportunities for gastronomic tourism for all tastes and all incomes. The number of restaurants as a whole is conspicuous in the cities that are art centers, extremely rich on the Romagna coast, surprisingly so also in the Apennine mountains, offering a large choice of top quality settings, f series of “trattorie”, “osterie”, wine bars with kitchen service, even back shops with chairs and tables for a snack. The most remarkable feature, however, is the myriad of kiosks located everywhere along the Romagna coast: the fast foods of “piadina” with its many delicious fillings, the cured pork meats, the “squacquerone”, the greens…

The Emilia-Romagna region is the home of egg pasta, where the preparation of pasta is still practically a ritual. Production includes a wide range of varieties, also in the many stuffed versions: every town and almost every family has its own secrets for kneading pasta. The eggs are selected from those with a darker shell, guaranteeing brightly colored yolks that will give the pasta a golden hue; the sheet of dough is stretched and skillfully cut according to its intended use: a thin sheet cut in wider strips for pasta with sauce, a thicker sheet of dough cut narrow for pasta served in broth. The fillings are vegetables and cheese for vegetarian tortelli, meat for the cappelletti Reggiani and for the anolini of Piacenza. They are all served preferably in broth, like the queen of stuffed pasta, tortellini, the emblem of Bologna, which according to legend was inspired by the perfect shape of Venus’ navel. Among the sauces used for pasta, the place of honor is taken by ragu (meat sauce) which originated in this area; rich and tasty it requires long, careful cooking to enhance its flavors.

Technorati Tags [ italian food | piadina | cappelletti | tortellini | stuffed pasta | pasta | italian recipes | romagna | emilia | egg | fried recipes | regional recipes ]

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Posted: August 6th, 2007 under Food, Romagna, Italy.
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Today i am traveling all alone and, in order to fight loneliness, i want to share with you a wonderful journey through the narrow streets of Ravenna, the city that stands on the Adriatic Sea like a young woman fallen asleep nearby a calm, placid river.

Ravenna, the mosaic city, has a host of architectural masterpieces and mosaic art dating from the times of Galla Placidia, Theodoric and Justinian (c. 400 - 550). The Byzantium of the West has retained its unique appeal in its treasure of early-Christian basilicas, its baptisteries, its cylindrical 10th and 11th century bell towers, its Romanesque churches with examples of Renaissance architecture left by the Venetians and its 17th and 18th century buildings.

The city has a surprising vitality which would make it interesting even if it did not have a great, albeit distant, past; even if it had not preserved the monuments that have made it famous over the worl, eight of which have been designated Unesco World Heritage Sites; even if it were not situated in the great basin of Romagna’s Riviera..

However the discerning tourist will soon discover that the city has many surprises in store and that, behind its mask of Art and History, there is much more to see beyond the great early Christian and Byzantine remains. Here, the impetuous wind of modernization, which has destroyed much and which has brought much that is new, has spared the soul of the historic city. Not only the soul jealously preserved inside the basilicas ans baptisteries, protected and exalted, strangely, by their ancient, rough brick walls; not only its nocturnal soul, which is to be found in the most secluded corners of the city (i.e. Gella Placidia, the area associated with Dante). But also the more familiar soul, which is to be found all over the historic center. The old and the new live side by side, forming an unusual symbiosis, creating an athmosphere which is not only fascinating but difficult to put in words.

The environmental framework of Ravenna has changed as well as its structure, form and size. It is no longer ringed by water and marshes (except partialyy to the northeast, on the lagoon side, between pine grove and sea) nor by the network of rivers that still used to surround - and cross - it in the final centuries of the Roman Empire. Not even the great Augustan port still exists. For years now an extensive and growing archaeological park has taken its place. Yet, in recent decades, Ravenna has rediscovered its sea, on which for centuries it had turned its back in favour of a fertile hinterland. It has a great port once more, a commercial and industrial one this time.

Despite all this, the ancient capital remains the city of the mosaics.

Since this is not a lonely planet guide i would suggest you only some cool places to pay a visit to, the rest of the stuff you will have to find by yourself, mixing curiosity and exploring inclination.

Ok, ready? First of all go to Piazza del Popolo, one of the loveliest squares in the upper Adriatic. You will see some venetian buldings, witness of their rule over the city in the past centuries.

Then you can’t miss Basilica of S. Apollinare Nuovo, perhaps the most important monument of the Imperial and early Christian Roman world of Ravenna. Here you will see two impressive walls covered by mosaics (unique in the art of antiquity) representing both the Catholic faith and the strongest Heresy in the Imperial Church.

Finally take a walk to Mausoleum of Theodoric, an Ostrogoth monument dedicated to the great Emperor. Note that the mausoluem is the only religious building in Ravenna built entirely in stone and it’s the only monument without mosaics in Ravenna declared a world heritage by Unesco.

The last thing to do in Ravenna? Pay a visit to Dante’s Tomb of course. Dante is the father of human literature and greatest poet of all times, so why not greeting him before leaving this astonishing city?

Bye Ravenna, you are in my heart.

Technorati Tags [ Ravenna | mosaics | art | roman empire | Dante | Theodoric | Mausoleum | church | unesco | romagna | adriatic sea | italy | italian art city | byzantine | medieval ]

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Posted: August 1st, 2007 under Cities, Art, Romagna, Italy.
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A country of parties and festivals, this is how i call the land of Romagna. Every day you have a choice between 3 or 4 beach parties or you can explore the hinterland to find out some country festival. Yesterday we read the advertising flyer of a local festival called “The Night of the witches”, in San Giovanni in Marignano, a little medieval town just 3 km. far from here.

So we took our inseparable hotel bikes and we payed a visit to this event. We arrived at 9 p.m and we noticed a holy crowd darkening all the visible horizon. What a terrible sensation to walk like a herring in the oil… Anyway we step ahead, diving bravely this sea of meat.

The streets around were barely illuminated by a few lamps and the atmosphere was dark and creepy. In every street was flying above us the dummy of a witch, illuminated in red or blue or green, really scaring stuff. I could hear from distance strings playing an obsessive melody. Suddenly i saw a sign with the history of this Festival and i think you may be interested in because is kind of a cool piece of history.

Legend says that there is a lifetime astral configuration of St John’s Night. This particular setting is perfect for enchantment, and in this magic night the witches foregather. The wise protect himself by wearing under his clothes one of the herbs associated with St John’s Night: Hypericum (better known as St John’s wort), Lavender, a clove of Garlic picked before dawn; Verbena, symbolising peace and prosperity, or Artemisia, those little red berries also called St John’s berries.

This legend has inspired an annual event which aims to keep alive a historic tissue of popular beliefs and traditions by turning them into entertainments of various kinds: popular street theatre with shows illustrating the major themes of magic, superstition, and mystery; street markets showing and selling objects, medicinal herbs, magic stones and natural products; the witches’ cavern, an atmospheric stage setting for fortune-tellers and palmists .

Exploring the narrow alleys we found several shows of many international artists playing live in the streets. At first we found a particular dramatization from Chile. The artists who make up “Teatro Glimt” come from Denmark and Chile.
“Imagine a dinner where the only guest is the master of the house, the only manservant is drunk, and the only musician who has turned up is the wrong one.
Imagine the mistress of the house: flirtatious, jealous, a prima donna, served by her manservant on a rope, while the musician plays steel pans.
Imagine a time before the invention of the micro-chip, a time of subtlety and decadence. Make a journey back to this time”.
Teatro Glimt uses circus technique, theatre, dance, and music to tell this story full of humour, folly, and poetry, which will make the audience literally mad.
The three performers use circus acts such as ropes, acrobatics (for one or two people), walking on the hands, and juggling. All this is accompanied by live music provided by a double bass, steel pans, three different saxophones, flamenco shoes, percussion instruments, and an old radio!
“We speak, but we don’t use language. The show can be understood by everybody, whichever country they come from”.

After this outstanding show, in a close street we met another artistic event called Circus Xiclo. Xiclo is a real circus, well-known and popular throughout South America; its speciality is combining the most refined circus techniques with theatre, live music, and comic turns, making this one of the most interesting and amazing circus-theatre groups of the moment. The work of these eclectic performers follows the evolution of the language of circus arts, free from sophism or intellectual mediation, keeping intact the carefree joyous spirit of popular entertainment. The painstaking characterisation of the figures leads the audience by way of irony through the various performances; even the simplest numbers have unexpected twists. The joyous rhythm is kept up at speed throughout the show, by means of gags and clowning.
This company, which began its artistic adventures early in the 1990s, now numbers twelve members and has received international prizes in circus competitions, performing in over fifty cities all round the world.

At this point of the night we were a little bit tired, not to mention our 3 km. biking return to home. We decided to escape, far from the madding crowd someone would say… Of course we didn’t find our bikes and we forgot the name of the street where we have parked them. Fantastic. Anyway we had a drink thinking about where the hell we could have left the bikes. After a consistent number of drinks we had a mystic sensation of drunk wisdom and we saw the place where we left the bikes in our mind clearly!

I don’t know how we reached the hotel, neither for how long we traveled, but finally we got it and i said goodnight to all witches and wizards and whatever weird stuff out of my hotel room door.

Technorati Tags [ witches | creep show | festival | horror | medieval | town | San Giovanni | Romagna | Rimini | Cattolica | theatre | live show | circus | Glimt | Xiclo | magic ]

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Posted: July 12th, 2007 under Hinterland, Italy, Events.
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